NEW ZEALAND GOOD FOOD GUIDE

Embers, Salt and Smoke: The Art of Coastal Cooking


There’s something primal about cooking by the sea - a ritual that binds the cook, the elements and the meal in an ancient communion. Coastal cooking is not merely about feeding the body; it’s about tasting the rhythm of the tides, the hum of wind through the dunes and the whisper of smoke curling into the salt-tinged air. It’s food prepared where the land exhales into the ocean and where simplicity becomes poetry.

Cooking in Sand

On sun-drenched shores, the sand itself becomes the oven. It’s a method as old as seafaring - where fishermen would bury their catch in the earth, letting the heat of smouldering coals below work its magic.

Imagine it: a freshly caught snapper, wrapped in kelp or paperbark, sealed beneath the surface while the tide rolls lazily nearby. Hours later, as the sand is brushed away, the air blooms with the scent of the sea - soft, smoky and mineral-rich. The flesh beneath the charred wrapping is delicate and moist, perfumed by brine and smoke, kissed by fire and earth alike.
 
Embers, Salt and Smoke: The Art of Coastal Cooking

Sand cooking is a meditation in patience and respect. You relinquish control to nature’s slow oven, trusting the heat hidden below. The technique isn’t just about flavour - it’s about the sensory ritual: the crunch of grains between your fingers, the hiss of sea spray meeting hot coals, the anticipation of unearthing something deeply transformed.

Smoking by the Shore

Then there’s smoke - nature’s perfume and preservation rolled into one. On the coast, driftwood becomes both muse and medium. Eucalyptus, mangrove and she-oak lend their essences to fish, shellfish, or even seaweed. Smoking is a dialogue between fire and air, a dance that teases sweetness and depth from the simplest ingredients.

Picture a makeshift smoker fashioned from two rusted drums, perched on a rock ledge above the surf. Inside, fillets of mackerel glisten as the smoke curls and gathers, turning their silver sheen to gold. The aroma hangs heavy - earthy, oceanic, intoxicating.

When the first piece breaks apart between your fingers, it’s as though you’re eating the essence of the coastline itself: smoke, salt and sea in perfect harmony.
 
Embers, Salt and Smoke: The Art of Coastal Cooking

Cooking Over Coals and Flame

Where sand and smoke meet, flame always follows. Coastal fires, built from driftwood and sea-tossed branches, are the beating heart of shoreline cooking. A skillet blackened from years of use hisses as prawns meet its surface, their shells snapping, juices sizzling into fragrant steam. You might lay scallops on the half-shell directly on the embers, watching them quiver as butter, garlic and a hint of lemon transform them into something divine.

Cooking over fire by the water is a sensory symphony - the crackle of flame, the shimmer of heat against salt air, the distant lull of waves. There’s a purity in it, a kind of humility that modern kitchens can’t replicate.

The Spirit of the Coast

Coastal cooking is less a method and more a state of being. It demands presence. It asks you to feel the wind, to read the heat of the sand, to listen to the whisper of burning wood. Each meal carries the fingerprint of the landscape - salt-crusted, smoke-touched and born of both patience and passion.
 
Embers, Salt and Smoke: The Art of Coastal Cooking

When the sun dips low and the last ember fades, what remains is more than just a meal. It’s memory - of sea and smoke, of warmth and wildness, of being utterly and beautifully connected to the world.
Want more AGFG?
Subscribe to our newsletter for the latest articles & news...