By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
There’s sand at your feet…but it’s not Bondi. Water laps in the distance…but don’t confuse it for Manly. Dolls Point may not be the obvious first choice for shore-side dining, Sydney-style, but Porta Dining at the Georges River Sailing Club is hoping to change that with a $12 million upgrade that is delivering great club food and gorgeous ocean views.
Following a renovation that kicked off in May (post-Mother’s Day to be precise) and was completed six months later, the restaurant has emerged as a Mediterranean-inspired beauty on Botany Bay, pairing seaside sophistication - think sweeping water views and floor-to-ceiling windows - with a genuinely phenomenal menu.
Executive Head Chef Harry Finch’s spread is designed for lazy lunches, long dinners and late sunset drinks. It’s coastal confidence minus the fish and chip cliches. Fine dining without the fuss and a welcome upgrade from the ‘beer, beige and bowls club’ stereotype.
Seafood stars at Porta and it’s impossible not to start there. A citrus-cured salmon crudo glimmers with coral-hued freshness, its silky texture lifted by the freshness of the lemon. Pickled mussels, served with rye sourdough, boast the best of the briny offerings of the ocean.
The charred, marinated octopus - smoky, tender and finished with Aleppo pepper – is a plate that is so elegantly unpretentious, if there were ever an example of a dish understating the Porta assignment, it would be it.
The magic continues upon moving into the mains that celebrate both land and sea. The cut of the day might be cured duck breast with glossy caramelised peach - all sweet and savoury succulence. The catch of the day changes with the tide, but when it’s char-grilled rainbow trout with Cloudy Bay clams, saffron and fennel velouté, that tastes sun-kissed but looks like it belongs in the city, you’re in for a treat.
Then there’s the slow-roasted lamb shoulder - fall-apart tender, finished with tzatziki and salsa verde - it’s the kind of meal that falls neatly between rustic and refined and spotlights the ability for simple ingredients to be transformed into something spectacular under the expertise of a Chef with 30 years of professional experience.
Vegetarians at Porta are also treated as equals - not an afterthought. Golden saganaki drizzled with honey and caramelised seasonal fruit brings both crunch and melt, while heirloom tomatoes with stracciatella and Kalamata olives deliver a Mediterranean stream of sunshine on a plate. They’re the sort of dishes that make even the most devoted carnivores pause mid-bite.
The supporting sides and small bites are just as considered: feta, ricotta and kale spanakopita have all the nostalgia of a family recipe, wrapped in buttery layers that flake at the lightest touch, while the nduja and honey-orange carrots with labneh, ancient grains and sesame dukkah, are sweet, spicy, nutty and just downright addictive.
By the time the amazing desserts arrive, you may be considering your ability to find room for another bite. We urge you to try because the Porta team may well and truly have confirmed the case for saving the best till last. Affogato re-imagined layers vanilla ice cream, espresso, caramelised macadamia and chocolate shavings into a composition that’s as indulgent as it is playful.
The Coconut Cloud - with its poached coconut, meringue shards and pineapple textures - feels like Summer distilled into dessert form. A Fudge Brownie Sundae revisits nostalgia with chunks of banana caramel and chocolate cookie crumbs, while the Zephyr Baklava, a reconstructed version of the classic, folds pistachio, walnut and fromage mousse into something unmistakably modern.
If the food is the star, the drinks are no mere understudy. Thanks to an exclusive partnership with Maybe Sammy - one of the world’s most awarded bars - Porta Dining also delivers cocktails that wouldn’t look out of place on more commonly recognised coastlines. Almafi-esque Spritzes shimmer, classics are reimagined and signature creations are crafted specifically for the space.
Add a sharp selection of local and international wines, premium spirits and craft beers and you’ve got a beverage program that feels as curated as the cuisine.
What truly sets Porta apart, though, is the way it redefines expectation. A sailing club by name only, the space glows with natural light, its terraces spilling towards Botany Bay. There’s a sophistication here that never takes itself too seriously - the sort of place that makes you want to linger just a little longer.
As Harry puts it: "Porta is about connection through good food, good drinks and good company. It’s approachable, full of flavour and designed for sharing - just like any great meal by the water should be.”
