By Joseph Steele
There’s a particular kind of venue that Melbourne does better than almost anywhere else: the neighbourhood local that feels both elevated and entirely unpretentious. The kind of place you wander into for a midweek dinner and find yourself plotting your return before dessert arrives. The Gilroy Bar and Eatery in Port Melbourne is exactly that - and then some.
Set along Bay Street, The Gilroy leans into a warm, softly lit aesthetic. It strikes a careful balance between understated luxury and old-school hospitality. It’s the sort of room that hums with an eclectic energy fuelled by an old-world sensibility that feels thoroughly modern. Think lush velvet, exposed brick and booths that provide the perfect setting for an escape from the outside world.
But make no mistake. This is a kitchen-led venue and the menu is where The Gilroy begins to separate itself from the pack.
At its heart, The Gilroy centers on relationships. From being on a first name basis with the farmers and fisherman, to the inviting commencement of the guest experience. This care and attention to detail really sets the stage for a culinary experience that reads like a European love letter.
Start, as you should, with the white anchovies. Zesty, bright and unapologetically moreish. Paired with pickled shallots, roasted peppers, basil and aged apple balsamic, it’s a dish that delivers a wake-up call to the palate in the best possible way. Equally compelling is the chicken liver parfait, a great example of texture and restraint. Silky to the point of sheer decadence and lifted with a citrus jelly that cuts through with precision, it’s the kind of polished dish that lingers long after the plate has been cleared. So much so that it’s not uncommon for guests to request a take home order.
If you like your starters with a little theatre, the kingfish crudo that is presented as delicate ‘roses’ and a sharply executed steak tartare round out the lineup that speaks volumes to the technique of the kitchen.
Mains, however, are where The Gilroy’s ambition becomes undeniable. The chicken ballotine is a standout. Wrapped in aged prosciutto di Parma and filled with prawn mousseline, it walks the line between classical European influence and contemporary Australian flair. Served alongside Dutch carrots and parsnip purée, it’s rich without being heavy and comforting, without losing the refinement.
Pasta lovers, spaghetti vongole is where you will find heaven. Arguably, this is The Gilroy’s signature dish. Garlic, chilli, white wine and just enough butter to give the sauce a silk-like finish, it’s a masterclass in restraint. In a pasta obsessed city, it’s quietly making the rounds amongst Melbourne’s travel set as one of the best versions going around. Not an easy feat.
What makes it all the more compelling is the team behind it. The kitchen is led by 24-year-old Derek Thann, whose youth feels less like a novelty and more like a quiet flex. There’s a clear sense of discipline and creativity at play here, back by a team equally committed to delivering food that punches well above its weight.
You’re more than covered for wine. A thoughtfully curated wine list that spans over 160 bottles from France, Italy, Australia, New Zealand, the U.S., Spain and Germany really cement The Gilroy’s credentials as more than just a local haunt. It’s a place that invites exploration. Whether you’re in the mood for a familiar favourite or something a little left of centre.
Melbourne is a city that is saturated with openings and re-openings, but The Gilroy doesn’t rely on gimmicks or grandstanding. Instead, it offers something far more enduring. Excellent food, thoughtful wine and a space that genuinely encourages you to settle in.
For Port Melbourne locals it's a gift. For everyone else, it’s worth the detour.
